A challenge to Ontario wineries!

The kitchen has been re-organized, the patio is getting its' face-lift, and the summer lies before us as I finalize the spring wine list. I will be writing later this week about the upcoming Patio Opening Party and the upcoming Winery Tours, but today I wish to set the record straight and offer a challenge...

...As people and wineries offer to me what products I should carry I have come to the realization that there is some confusion as to what cafe Taste is and who I am...

...cafe Taste does NOT carry local food and wine because it is just from Ontario. I choose to support those producers that are close, however above all I choose our wines and our foods based upon QUALITY.

Wine is not simply 'good' to me based upon the merit of being from Ontario. No, I want to make it clear that I am trying to make consumers aware of the better quality wines that can be found here. Does one think that an Italian or French wine is automatically "good" simply because it comes from an "Old World" viticulture area? the reality is there is MUCH "bad" wine made everywhere, for as with all industries, as with all artistic disciplines, there are those that are more adept @ producing than others.

I will point out that Ontario (as the rest of the world) has produced an incredible amount of unsatisfactory wines. This does NOT mean however that Ontario isn't capable of world-class products. We have some magnificent winemakers here, and they all began with less than perfect creations.

Certainly there is the wild-card of vintage, but wine regions around the world each have something to offer, and the wine-makers craft an personal style is inherent in the wine they produce. The better producers rise to the top, and they reflect the "good" wines of that region.

I am thankful to be part of a movement that is changing the way we Ontarians view our food suppy; the "identity crisis" Ontarians (and Canadians) have about trying to compare their products to another part of the world. An Australian winemaker doesn't try and say "This Cabernet/Merlot is very Bordeaux", they are instead proud that they produce a wine in an AUSTRALIAN style. Same too as the Californians, the French, the Spanish.

Take the International vinifera and grow them throughout the world and see how each region bears their mark upon the wines. Then see how Ontarian wines bear the mark of our terroir and be proud of them. A California Cabernet should drink a certain way, as should an Australian, a French, and so too an Ontarian!

So my challenge to Ontario wineries is two-fold: Do not try and imply Ontario wines are "just like Burgundy/Bordeaux/Tuscany/Napa Valley/etc.", instead embrace the nuances of an exquisitely crafted local wine, as is done in every other of the world's wine regions.

I will go further and put emphasis on "exquisitely crafted"; As I've already stated, wines will not be carried by cafe Taste that aren't quality, and I implore Ontario winemakers to not use the VQA symbol as a shield to sell wines that are simply local. Rise to the challenge, learn your craft well, and create exceptional wines I can proudly present to my customers.

This is an exciting time for us as there is a surge of quality. It is my hope that the ripples of this become waves that raise the levels of all produced.

Regards;

Jeremy Day - Wine Geek

Ontario Chardonnay...Seriously Cool!

Credit and thanks needs to go out to Southbrook Winery's Bill Redelmeier for conceptualizing a throw-down to the U.K. of Ontario Chadonnay!

Bill has organized a selection of Ontario Chardonnay to be represented @ an exclusive tasting this May in London England, and I was fortunate enough to be able to pre-sample the wines soon to make the journey. I'll begin with the event, then the wines.

Held @ the Toronto Racket Club on Tuesday afternoon, I steeled myself to get through in enough time to get back to open the bar. I arrived, put my head down, and charged with glass in hand for the wines, working the room in a clock-wise fashion; I was a man-with-a-plan!

FOILED @ the first table, I'm met by Keith Tyers @ Closson Chase! Years ago Keith exposed me to my first blind tasting, striving for me to match pallete with wine knowledge - something that I have valued ever since - so I HAD to stop and chat ;)

THEN @ table #2 I had to speak w. Derek from Lailey about his joining Twitter...I knew then that things looked grim for getting out of there in a reasonable time, as Suresh Doss of Spotlight Toronto, Andrew Hanna, Norman Hardie, Thomas Bachelder, Martin Malivoire, Jamie Drummond & Bill Redelmeier himself all needed catching-up with...suffice to say that after giving-in to my desire to catch-up and socialize with such meaningful people in the industry, I was 2 hours' late @ cafe Taste (thanks for opening the joint, Julye)!

ON TO THE WINES: Though I tasted through 36 wines - all of which deserve mention - I will be leaving the full evaluation to the professional wine writers and simply give my feedback on those that my palette adored the most.

Represented in the 36 was an impressive gamut of styles of chardonnay. Please remember that chardonnay as a grape can bear more variation based upon methods of production, and is enjoyed in a staggering number of flavours, bodies, weights and aromatics. I do NOT present you with an account of all styles tasted, I present you with my top 5 based upon personal preference:

1) Southbrook 1998 Poetica: Rich, warm, gold and patina colours, exceptional depth, balance of acid and core of delightful caramelized fruit. A great example of ageablitity of Ontario whites. This wine was crafted by Derek Barnett (now @ Lailey Vineyard). Grapes were sourced from 'old vine' Chardonnay vines from Niagara River appelation as Southbrook had no vineyards of their own in the 90's. Very masculine in style.
2) Le Clos Jordanne 2006 LCJ Vineyard: Fantastic richness and elegance from this well-rounded wild-ferment chardonnay. Robe is lustrous yellow with bronze. Palette is harmonious, mouthfeel hints of juiciness from lees contact. A wine that exemplifies balance, though fruit is still in its' early years of production. Thomas Bachelder does Ontario proud with his Burgundian methodology!
3) Lailey Vineyard 2008 Old Vines Chardonnay: Sourced from the same grapes as the Southbrook 1998 Poetica (above), and crafted by these vines had an extra 12 years to mature (As both this and wine #1 were both crafted by Derek I'm interested in seeing this wine in 12 years' time!) Robe is rich straw w. flecks of bronze, steel and mineral on nose with nice vanilla notes.
4) Malivoire Wine Company 2004 Moira Vineyard: Another example of vines that are just "coming of age", Martin Malivoire asks for Shiraz Mottiar to develop wines in harmony with the environment (embrace the ladybug!) Robe is 'steely' yellow, nose has rich candied fruit and floral expression. The structure of this wine is exceptional, and I'm very impressed with the complexity. I'm glad this wine made it out of the library to see how the fruit would perform.
5) Norman Hardie 2008 Unfiltered Chardonnay: Beamsville (Niagara) fruit lends a succulence that works well with the extended lees contact of Norm's wines - well worth a visit to his winery to learn about his horizontal tanks for this gentle contact! The robe lends itself to visions of lush fruit, green-apple skin tones, with a nose likewise lush and fruity - more tropical - but still with a hint of vanilla. Fleshy mouthfeel (think of biting an aloe leaf) with core of mineral chalk, savoury on finish.

...MANY accolades however go out to the others represented, and I anxiously await the results of these wineries being showcased in London - Good luck representing not just your wineries, but Ontario as a region :)

Regards;
Jeremy Day - Wine Geek
cafe Taste

Niagara Bus Tour is Nigh!

The tourism industry might be in the tank, but the wine lovers are certainly alive and kicking. With over a week to go we sold out of the bus tour. We sold so many tickets in fact that I’m driving the staff down in my car. Wow, me the designated driver, someone take a picture.

Itinerary
8:30-8:40 AM Guests arrive @ Taste and get espresso'd up w. our house-made cinibuns
8:45 Departure!
10:00 AM @ Chateau des Charmes for VIP cellar tour and tasting
11:45 AM @ Cattail Creek VIP Tour and tasting.
1:30 PM @ Henry of Pelham for tour (lunch @ 2:15)
4:00 PM @ Flat Rock - terroir/facility tour
5:00 PM Leave for Toronto for BBQ @ Taste.
6:30 PM David looks longingly at his first wine of the day.


Map
Wow, I’ve got several friends that are graphics designers… They must be so proud.






What’s cooking:

• Pasta Primavera will be our $3.00 recession pasta on Tues. 4th.
• Angelo Bean Sausages and the Taste Burger will be available on Friday 31st only.
• Our new goat cheese and fire roasted red pepper dip will be hitting the menu this week too.
• Roasted garlic and cheddar bread made with wine flour will be appearing soon.

Events:

• Our Prince Edward County trip is official. We’re heading out on the 6th of September and hitting Sandbanks, The Grange and Huff Estates! We’ve already received a lot of attention on this trip, and couple that with no one else is doing bus tours to the county from Toronto and we expect this to sell very well.
• And yes we’ll be also hitting the Niagara Wine Festival!
• Thanksgiving Prix Fixe.
• Our next Wine Tasting is August 12th and spots are still available.

David Berman
Food Geek